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Francis Boulard along with his daughter Delphine make wines of beautiful character with an eye for detail. Farming biodynamically his share of vines which had once been part of the now-defunct Raymond Boulard estate, Francis Boulard makes Champagnes with cut and expressiveness. Fermentation is with native yeasts in barrel, all wines undergo malo and are bottled with low sulfur. The 2009 Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature is bright aromatically with pear skin, salt, wet stone, brioche on nose. On the palate are warm hints of golden apple, Bosc pear, and pungent acidity. There is ripeness without a sense of sweetness. There is great texture without sacrificing precision; the bracing acidity and zero dosage are offset with enough richness between the ripe vintage and oak aging. The finish is long and builds. I like this a lot. A Champagne built for comfort with more than a bit of speed. This has enough structure to pair with roasted sea bass, but has the cut to complement skate with brown butter and capers. John McIlwain