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The so-called Market remains a thing of mystery (the Wine Market, that is; forget knowing anything about any other Market); somehow I think we cruise alongside, part of the Market but not really of it. Maybe it’s just wishful thinking, and in any case this isn’t a statement of superiority –but the quantities we get of most of what we sell are so small that our enthusiasms (or lack of enthusiasm for other wine) is hardly going to move the needle on any meter. For example, we have 24 bottles of Acclivi to sell, and not more than 60 of any other Burlotto wine. We’re told that The Market was crazy for 2010 Barolo, a vintage I also prefer, but one that was more austere and obviously structured than 2011, and which will need much more time in the cellar; the good 2011s, like this Barolo Acclivi, combine reasonable elegance and structure with ripeness and approachability. I found the Acclivi to be a classic wine, in a rich and suave mode. What’s not to like? Jamie Wolff Nebbiolo pairs well with big flavors such as rich lamb and beef dishes, stews, any mushrooms or root vegetables, veal, and aged cheeses.