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No longer fodder for punch lines (or punch bowls), today's Lambrusco is not the industrial, saccharine version of years past. Wonderfully dry, this is a traditional-style wine produced by one of the region's best Cantinas. Called "Labrusca" as a nod to the grape's ancient name and origins, taste why Lini's praises are sung from Bed-Stuy speakeasies to Men's Vogue.