Chartogne Taillet St. Anne Brut NV

This is becoming very fine, and watch out; it's entirely different from its old apples-and-butter form, more oystery and chalky and ginger and talc, with the apple-butter thing skulking in the mid-palate. It's racy, on the tensile side. I'd be a lot happier with three more grams of rs, but you won't agree if you prefer a vigorously dry Champagne.